Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
